How I Euro Mounted My Deer Head the Old-Fashioned Way
By: Ashley Holm
Last season, I shot a deer and fully intended to get the euro mount done right away… but like most things during hunting season, life got busy, and it just didn’t happen. Instead of stressing over it, I decided to go the old-fashioned, practically free route and let nature do most of the work. I only took off the easy parts of the hide, then used metal zip-ties to attach the whole head underneath a trailer. It was shaded enough that the antlers wouldn’t get sun bleached, but still open so bugs, critters, and natural decay could do their thing.
Honestly, after about four months, it was already clean enough to finish, but we didn’t get around to it until the eighth month. When I finally pulled it out, all the hard work was done. From there, all I had to do was boil it in short rounds, scrape as I went, and then bleach it with regular hair developer, and I was done. Here’s exactly how I did it and how you can do the same.
Step 1: Let Nature Do the Dirty Work
Once I had the hide peeled back enough, I secured the head under a trailer where it had airflow but stayed shaded. That shade is huge; you don’t want the antlers getting sun-bleached. But ensuring it has airflow and an open area with access to the head, this lets insects and weather clean everything naturally without trapping moisture or creating that awful rotting smell.
Tip: If your spot gets a little more sun than mine did, wrap the antler bases with electrical tape just to be safe.
Step 2: Check Back in a Few Months
By month four, mine was basically ready to go, though I didn’t touch it until month eight. Most of the tissue was gone, and what was left was just dried bits that were super easy to clean later.
Tip: Gloves. Trust me. Even after months of natural cleaning, it’s still… a deer head.
Step 3: Boil in Short Rounds
Boiling (well, simmering) is the fastest way to finish the job. I filled a big pot just deep enough for the skull, but kept the antlers out of the water. I simmered it in 10-minute increments, took it out each time, and scraped off whatever loosened up.
Shorter boils keep the bone from getting brittle or falling apart, especially in the nasal cavity.
Tip: Add a little dish soap or baking soda to the water. It helps break down oils and speeds things up.
Step 4: Degrease (If It Needs It)
Some skulls come out perfectly clean. Others have those yellow oily spots. If yours does, just soak it in warm water with dish soap for a day or two. It’ll clear right up.
Tip: If the water turns cloudy, change it. I usually will change the water every day just to be safe.
Step 5: Whiten With Hair Developer or Spray Paint
You don’t need fancy taxidermy supplies for this. I used regular 20–40 volume hair developer from the store.
I brushed it on the skull (avoiding the antlers), let it sit for a few hours, rinsed it off, and that was it. Nice, clean white bone.
Another option is to seal the skull with white spray paint. I am actually starting to prefer this method in the long run. I think it seals the bone better and stays white forever. Hair developer tends to yellow over time if you don’t degrease 100%. The more I do, the more I prefer spray paint.
Tip: Never use household bleach; it will ruin the bone long-term.
Step 6: Final Touches
Once it was dry, I glued a couple of loose teeth back in, and that was pretty much all it needed. You can seal it with a matte clear coat if you want or mount it on a plaque or hanger. I used my Camp Co Euro Mount Plaque. These are affordable and made of extremely high-quality wood.
Extra Tips I Picked Up Along the Way
Wrap the antlers before you boil or whiten, just in case.
Don’t over-boil. That’s how you end up with crumbly bone.
A pressure washer can help, but be gentle, or you’ll blast out the nasal bones. By allowing nature to do the work for you, I find that a pressure washer just isn’t necessary.
Use a dedicated pot. Seriously. Don’t put soup in it later.
Patience pays off. Whether it’s bugs or boiling, letting each step do its job makes everything easier and can save you hundreds of dollars.
I am no professional, but this method seems to work for me really well and saves a couple hundred dollars. It’s a win-win. If you’re nervous to try this out on your own, try using a less desirable skull first. Practice on your whitetail does until you’re satisfied with the outcome, then come time for that big buck, you're confident, and it turns out perfectly.
